PALITANA
The town of Palitana, 51 km south-west
of Bhavnagar, is little more than a gateway to
Shatrunjaya.
Shatrunjaya
Strewn with 863 temples, the hilltop
complex of Shatrunjaya (the Place of Viceroy) is one
of jainism’s holiest pilgrimage sites. The temples
were built over a period of 900 years on a hilltop
dedicated entirely to the gods, at dusk, even the
priests depart from the temples, leaving them
deserted.
Almost all the temples are Jain, and
this hill demonstrates their belief that merit is
derived from constructing temples. The hilltops are
bounded by sturdy walls and the temples are grouped
into nine tunks (enclosures) – each with a central
temple with many minor ones clustered around. Some of
the earliest temples here were built in the 11th
century but were destroyed by Muslims in the 14th and
15th centuries ; the current temples date from the
16th century onwards.
The hilltop affords a very fine
view in all directions; on a clear day you can see the
Gulf of Cambay beyond Bhavnagar. The most notable of
the temples is dedicated to Shri Adishwara, the first
Jain tirthankar. Note the frieze of dragons around
this temple. Adjacent is the Muslim shrine of Angar
Pir. Women who want children make offerings of
miniature caradles at this shrine.
Built in 1618 by a wealthy Jain
merchants, the Chaumukh, or Four –Faced shrine, has
images of Adinath facing out in the four cardinal
directions. Other important temples are those
dedicated to Kumar Pal, Sampriti Raj and Vimal Shah.
SARKHEJ
The suburb of Sarkhej, 8 km south –west
of Ahmedabad, is noted for its elegant group of
buildings, including the Mausoleum of Azam & Mu’assam,
built in 1457 by the brothers responsible for
Sarkhej’s architecture. The architecture is
interesting because the style is almost purely Hindu,
with little of the Saracenic influence so evident in
Ahmedabad.
As you enter Sarkhej, you pass the
Mausoleum of Mahmud Begara and, beside the tank and
connected to his tomb, that of his queen, Rajabai
(1461). Also by the tank is the Tomb of Ahmad Khattu
Ganj Buksh, a renowned Muslim saint and spiritual
adviser to Ahmed Shah. The saint is said to have died
in 1445 at the age of 111. Next to this is a fine
mosque. Like the other buildings, it is notable for
the complete absence of arches, a usual feature of
Muslim architecture. The palace, with pavilions and a
harem, is also around the tank.
The Dutch established a factory in
Sarkhej in 1620 to process the indigo that is grown
here.
Batwa
Ten-kilometer south-east of Ahmedabad
the superb of Batwa has tombs of a noted Muslim saint
(himself the son of another saint) and the saint’s
son, Batwa also has an important mosque.
Adalaj Wav
Nineteen kilometers north of Ahmedabad,
Adalaj Wav is one of the finest of the Gujarati
step-wells, with carvings depicting intricate motifs
of flowers and birds. Built by Queen Rudabai in 1499
it provided a cool and secluded retreat during the hot
summer months. The Ahemdabad – Gandhinagar bus will
get you within walking distance.