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Travel Guide

PALITANA

The town of Palitana, 51 km south-west of Bhavnagar, is little more than a gateway to Shatrunjaya. 

Shatrunjaya

Strewn with 863 temples, the hilltop complex of Shatrunjaya  (the Place of Viceroy) is one of jainism’s holiest pilgrimage sites. The temples were built over a period of 900 years on a hilltop dedicated entirely to the gods, at dusk, even the priests depart from the temples, leaving them deserted.

   Almost all the temples are Jain, and this hill demonstrates their belief that merit is derived from constructing temples. The hilltops are bounded by sturdy walls and the temples are grouped into nine tunks (enclosures) – each with a central temple with many minor ones clustered around. Some of the earliest temples here were built in the 11th century but were destroyed by Muslims in the 14th and 15th centuries ; the current temples date from the 16th century onwards.

     The hilltop affords a very fine view in all directions; on a clear day you can see the Gulf of Cambay beyond Bhavnagar. The most notable of the temples is dedicated to Shri Adishwara, the first Jain tirthankar. Note the frieze of dragons around this temple. Adjacent is the Muslim shrine of Angar Pir. Women who want children make offerings of miniature caradles at this shrine.

  Built in 1618 by a wealthy Jain merchants, the Chaumukh, or Four –Faced shrine, has images of Adinath facing out in the four cardinal directions. Other important temples are those dedicated to Kumar Pal, Sampriti Raj and Vimal Shah.  

SARKHEJ

The suburb of Sarkhej, 8 km south –west of Ahmedabad, is noted for its elegant group of buildings, including the Mausoleum of Azam & Mu’assam, built in 1457 by the brothers responsible for Sarkhej’s architecture. The architecture is interesting because the style is almost purely Hindu, with little of the Saracenic influence so evident in Ahmedabad.

  As you enter Sarkhej, you pass the Mausoleum of Mahmud Begara and, beside the tank and connected to his tomb, that of his queen, Rajabai (1461). Also by the tank is the Tomb of Ahmad Khattu Ganj Buksh, a renowned Muslim saint and spiritual adviser to Ahmed Shah. The saint is said to have died in 1445 at the age of 111. Next to this is a fine mosque. Like the other buildings, it is notable for the complete absence of arches, a usual feature of Muslim architecture. The palace, with pavilions and a harem, is also around the tank.

   The Dutch established a factory in Sarkhej in 1620 to process the indigo that is grown here.  

Batwa

Ten-kilometer south-east of Ahmedabad the superb of Batwa has tombs of a noted Muslim saint (himself the son of another saint) and the saint’s son, Batwa also has an important mosque. 

Adalaj Wav

Nineteen kilometers north of Ahmedabad, Adalaj Wav is one of the finest of the Gujarati step-wells, with carvings depicting intricate motifs of flowers and birds. Built by Queen Rudabai in 1499 it provided a cool and secluded retreat during the hot summer months. The Ahemdabad – Gandhinagar bus will get you within walking distance.

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