SASAN GIR NATIONAL PARK

The last home of the Asiatic lion (Panthera leo lersica) is 59 km from Junagadh via Visavadar. The 1400 sq km sanctuary was set up to protect the lion and its habitat; since 1980 numbers have increased from less than 200 to an estimated 286 in 1997. However, while the lions have been the winners, the local maaldharis (herders) have lost valuable grazing land for their cattle.

     Although the lions seem remarkably tame, in recent years they have reportedly been wandering well outside the limits of the sanctuary in search of easy game – namely caves – which in earlier times was found within the park. The problem is compound by the declining areas of forest outside the sanctuary, forcing villagers to forge for fuel within the sanctuary precincts, reducing the habitat of the lions.

    The best time to visit, the sanctuary is from December to April, and it is closed from 16 June to 15 October and even later if there has been a heavy monsoon.

    Apart from lions there are more than 30 species of other animals, including panthers, hyenas, foxes, wild boars and a number of deer and antelope. The deer include the largest Indian antelope (the nilgai), the graceful chinkara gazelle, the chowsingha and the barking deer. You may also see parrots, peacocks and monkeys.

     Twelve kilometers from Sisan village at Devalia within the sanctuary precincts, is the Gir Interpretation Zone. The 4.12 sq km zone has a cross section of the wildlife in Gir, so you’d be certain to see a lion here if you’ve been unlucky in the main sanctuary.

   There are 25 species of reptiles in the sanctuary. A crocodile-rearing centre has been established next to Sinh Sadan Forest Lodge, where hatchlings are reared and then released into their natural habitat.

MANDVI

Sixty-kilometer south-west of Bhuj, Mandvi is being promoted as a beach resort, and the beach is good, long and clean. The town has a long history of shipbuilding, and fishing boats and larger cargo vessels are still built in the port. Mandvi is a pleasant and unspoilt seaside town, with friendly people and no hassles, but not many travelers venture out here. 

LITTLE RANN OF KUTCH

The Little Rann of Kutch, the barren expanse of ‘desert’ (actually salt plains), which divides Gujarat’s western region of Kutch from the rest of Gujarat, is the home of the last remaining population of khur (Asiastic wild ass) in India. There’s also a large bird population, particularly of lesser flamingos. Both are protected in the 5000 sq km Little Rann sanctuary, which is approached from the sanctuary superintendent’s office in Dhrangadhra.

   This small town of Zainabad, 105 km north west of Ahmedabad, is very close to the Little Rann of Kutch.

DIU

Like Daman and Goa, Diu was a Portuguese colony until it was taken over by India in1961. Along with Daman, it is still governed from Delhi as a Union Territory rather than as part of Gujarat. The former colony includes the island of Diu, about 13km long by 3km wide, separated from the coast by a narrow channel. There are also two tiny maintained enclaves. One of these, where the village of Ghoghla stands, is the entry point to Diu from Una.

    Diu’s crowning glory is sightseeing terms is its huge fort. The northern side of the island, facing Gujarat, is tidal marsh and saltpans, while the southern coast alternates between limestone cliffs, rocky covers and sandy beaches.

   The somewhat windswept and arid island is riddled with quarries from which the Portuguese removed vast quantities of limestone to build the fort, city walls, monuments and buildings.

   The rocky and sandy interior reaches a maximum height of just 29m, so agriculture is limited although there are extensive stands of coconut and other palms. Branching palms (Hyphaene species) are very much a feature of the island and were originally introduced from Africa by the Portuguese.

    The island’s main industry would have to be fishing, followed by booze and salt. Kalpana Distillery at Malala produces rum. from sugar cane. 

History

Between, the 14th and 16th centuries, Diu was an important trading post and naval base from which the Ottoman Turks controlled the shipping routes in the northern part of the Arabian Sea.

   Portugal made an unsuccessful attempt to capture the island in 1531, during which Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Gujarat, was assisted by the Turkish navy. Yet the Portuguese finally secured control in 1535 by taking advantage of a quarrel between the sultan and the Mughal emperor. Humayun. Humayun had defeated Bahadur Shah the previous year and had forced him into exile in Malwa, but while he was distracted by clashes with the Afghan Sher Khan, Bahadur was able to return.

   With pressure still being exerted by both the Portuguese and the Mughals, Bahadur concluded a peace treaty with the Portuguese, effectively giving them control over the port at Diu. The treaty was soon cast to the wind and , although both Bahadur Shah and his successor , Sultan Mahmud III, attempted to contest the issue, the peace treaty that was eventually signed in 1539 ceded the island of Diu and the mainland enclave of Ghoghla to Portugal. Soon after the signing of this treaty, the Portuguese began constructing their fort.  

Diu Town

Laid –back Diu Town (population 37,000) was the first landing point for the Parsis when they fled from Persia, although they stayed only three years.

    The town is sandwiched between the massive fort to the east and a huge city wall to the west. The main Zampa Gateway in the wall has carvings of lions, angles and a priest, while just inside the gate is a miniature chapel with an icon, dating from 1702. Just to the south, outside the wall, is the Zampa Waterfall, a strange artificial creation that is lit up at night.

  St. Paul’s is the only church in town still fulfilling its original function. Nearby is St Thomas ‘ Church, which houses the Diu Museum. There’s and interesting collection of Catholic statues, including a somewhat disturbing statue of Christ prostrate on a bier, flanked by two angels.

   In a small park on the esplanade, between the square and the police station, Marwar Memorial, topped by a griffin the in, commemorates the liberation of the island from the Portuguese.

   Completed in 1541, the massive Portuguese fort with its double moat must once have been virtually impregnable, but sea erosion and neglect are leading to a slow but inevitable collapse. Piles of cannon balls litter the place and the ramparts have a superb array of cannons, many old yet in good condition.  

Around the Island

Beaches Temple and fort –satiated travelers used to head to Nagoa to catch up on some serious relaxation. But though it’s still a pleasant palm-fringed beach and safe for swimming, it’s quite busy nowadays, and western women tend to get unwanted attention from the numerous young, Indian men hanging around Gomptimata, to the west, is a sandy beach that still is deserted, and gets big waves. Beaches within easy reach of Diu Town include, from east to west, Jallandhar, Chakratirth and stunning Sunset Point. 

Fudam: Close to Diu Town, the village of Fudam has a huge church, Our Lady of Remedies, that’s now used as a guest house. A large, old, carved wooden altar with Madonna and child remains inside. 

Vanakbara

At the extreme west of the island, Vanakbara has a church (Our Lady of Mercy), fort, lighthouse, small bazaar, post office and fishing fleet. This little fishing village is worth a visit- wander through the town to the port area where you can see the locals mending nets and repairing their colourful fishing boats.